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Final week, I made this workbench for my daughter. The highest is white oak and the bottom is poplar. All the joinery is thru mortise and tenon joints. On this video/article I’ll cowl the bottom match and end, the vise set up, and making use of a superb end for workbenches.
If you happen to’d prefer to buy the CNC information I used to make this, click on right here.
The primary order of enterprise is flushing all the tenons. I thought of making a flush-trim router base plate that permits the router to hold over the trimmed floor. Nevertheless, on this case, it actually isn’t essential, as I have already got a large base plate that may work simply tremendous.
The little bit of alternative is a 1/4″ flush trim two flute finish mill. It is a nice, lengthy lasting router bit with many makes use of within the store. If you happen to haven’t already picked one up, head on over to bitsbits.com and get one. Use my code JAYBATES to save lots of 10%.
The bit peak is about with the bottom plate on a bit of three/4″ plywood. A chunk of paper is used to verify the bit is simply barely kissing the floor, or a contact excessive.
This piece of plywood is definitely the insert plate for my lever router elevate. It’s handy due to the opening within the center. With the bottom plate of the router resting on either side of the opening the tenon is trimmed flush with the floor.
Every leg has a complete of three tenons. 4 legs instances three tenons means the method is repeated eleven extra instances. Twelve complete.
After trimming the tenons, your complete base will get sanded. I didn’t go too loopy right here. Simply 80 grit to get all of the floor transitions easy.
I additionally wanted to deal with the dangerous edges on the inside of the bottom. Once I construct the bench I didn’t have sufficient excellent wooden so a number of of the items had one edge that was sub par. No worries. I eliminated all of the fuzzies to organize for paint.
At this level the highest remains to be too lengthy. I by no means flushed up the perimeter of the highest on the CNC machine. As an alternative, I finished 1/2″ shy of going all through, because of the approach I had it mounted to the CNC. A round noticed lower removes the surplus bulk that the router it can’t get.
Then the flush trim bit can do its job.
A bit extra sanding on the highest floor…
And the edges of the highest…
Do you bear in mind these sawhorses? I made these a decade in the past and have abused them since. They’re extremely straightforward to make and so they stack for storage. I like to recommend making some in case you haven’t already.
I had each intention to color this pink, however it’s my daughters workbench, so I had her select a coloration. Her favourite coloration is blue and he or she went with a sky blue.
A fundamental vise will do the job simply tremendous for her. That is the one vise my native ironmongery store had readily available.
Eradicating the rear jaw makes mounting it to the bench quite a bit easeir.
Two wooden screws within the face and two bigger diameter screws down beneath.
I wished so as to add a private word to the bottom for my daughter. One thing a bit cleaner than simply utilizing a maker on the underside of the workbench high. It is a actually helpful use for a laser engraver.
I engraved a message for her to search out. It’s seen in case you search for it however it blends sufficient to not stick out like a sore thumb.
With all the base work accomplished, the bench can come again to actuality…or the bottom.
I had one clear, knot-free board for the highest meeting that wasn’t lengthy sufficient to make use of for the highest. I ought to be capable to get the vise jaws out of it, simply.
The vise is 6-1/2″ huge. I made the jaws 12″ huge.
With the jaws in place the hole between them and the highest might be addressed. Go away the hole there or fill it? I made a decision to fill it. That may be finished by both mortising out a pocket on the again of the again jaw or airplane down materials to suit the area.
I opted to airplane down extra materials to suit the area.
With all of my jaw items established, I can take away the vise to mount them. The rear jaw is positioned 1″ away from one finish and screw holes are drilled.
Then the thinner piece is about in place, wit the identical 1″ overhang, and the iron jaw is traced.
Then eliminated with the bandsaw.
I virtually forgot this step. Two holes are wanted on the within of the again jaw for the mounting screws to go via.
Right here you possibly can see the thinner piece as it can straddle the iron jaw. The match is sweet so I marked the size and lower it to dimension.
A little bit of glue and spring clamps to finish the rear jaw.
The clearance holes permit the vise to be mounted to the workbench after the rear jaw is mounted to the vise.
And the entrance jaw is the best of the bunch. Simply two small screws via the entrance.
I attempted utilizing my oscillating instrument to chop the jaws flush with the highest of the workbench. This labored surprisingly properly. Significantly better than I had anticipated.
A little bit of sanding remains to be essential after the lower.
And eventually, the perimeters are damaged with sandpaper. I solely sanded simply sufficient to stop splinters. That is one space in woodworking the place I don’t suppose a roundover or chamfer is advantageous. I would like as a lot workable space on the highest as attainable, proper as much as the sting.
For a end, I went with a pure coloration Danish oil. It’ll supply extra safety than a easy oil end whereas additionally not being as slippery as a movie end, like polyurethane. It actually introduced the oak to life.
After about 20 minutes, the additional is wiped off and left to remedy. I wasn’t a fan of the blue at first. After seeing it full with the end on the highest, I actually prefer it.
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